After you get started, try pinning the starting end down to your ironing board to keep it in place, then draw the bias maker down the length of the strip keeping your iron close to the folded strip coming out of the bias maker. You fold once and use very close zig-zag stitches (buttonhole kind of stitch) to cover the fold. Working with bias tape on a straight edge certainly isnt hard but the curves can sometimes be a bit tricky. Super Skinny Pants with Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy! When you’re finished, the tape will hold a curve that matches the edge of the fabric. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases through my affiliate links. To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. Lucky you! For deep curves, you want to steam iron the bias tape into the same curve as the fabric before applying it. Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. If you have ends to deal with, open them up and tuck the raw edges in and fold it up again along the creases. Fabulous work on this – congratulations!!! Single fold bias is used to hem curved edges, for example on a circle skirt, and around neck lines. 3. Narrow zig-zag hem, similar to serging. Stitch bias tape along entire hem at 1/4″ seam allowance. The Monthly Stitch, I’ve made two Sewaholic Granville button down shirts. First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. Lol! In fact, once you understand the stuff, you will LOVE it! Bias tape usually comes folded in half with the raw edges tucked under towards the center fold. In this tutorial youll learn how to sew single fold bias binding for armscye but the same principle works for any curved or straight edge. Stitch in the crease line closest to the raw edge. Bias tape usually comes folded in half with the raw edges tucked under towards the center. Sorry I forgot to photograph this step until I’d finished stitching the seam so the more keen observer may notice that the seam has already been stitched even though the fabric is still on the machine bed since I put it back on to snap a pic. 23-jan-2016 - How to sew a curved hem – Hem curves with bias tape - Melly Sews Copyright © 2021 Melly Sews on the Foodie Pro Theme. 03.09.2019 - Stricken How to sew a curved hem - Hem curves with bias tape, #Bias #curved #curves #Hem #Sew #Stricken #strickenbaby #tape Iron the seam and pin the top edge of the bias tape in place. I’ll show you how to finish armholes with bias tape, how to use bias tape on a neckline and also how to make a bias tape hem. My mother couldn’t see a button on. Once you get it started, you’ll have to hold the first inch or so in place while you press it. With bias tape completely unfolded, sew together at pin. Ease the bias into the curve and pin in place as needed. Hem tape is a way of hemming your clothes without the use of needles and threads. Single fold bias tape is essentially a long strip of fabric with both ends already folded under so that it is ready for use. Great little tutorial! I dare you to find the joint  on this finished bias binding! Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. Basically, you press the bias tape in half, fold it over the hem of the fabric and sew. To do this, first go find yourself one of these handy dandy tools: Mine is a Dritz Quilting brand 1/2″ (12 mm) bias tape maker. At the beginning of the tape fold it up about 1/2″. Finishing Curved Hem with Bias Tape & Sewing Side Seams // Kalle Sewalong ... Today’s focus is on finishing an ultra curvy hem with bias tape. Maybe I went a little overboard with pattern matching this shirt? Your email address will not be published. #toomanygirlsinhere. Pressing the bias tape to match the curve is such a good idea! It can be tricky to sew a curved hem. Give it one more good press and you have a beautiful pucker-free curved hem. Check the hem allowance on your pattern, … ( Log Out /  Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. Love this!! Just discovered this site and ALREADY LOVE LOVE LOVE it. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. Do this by lining up the bias tape with the raw edge of the fabric, and using the tip of the iron to iron just a bit of the tape at a time while ahead of the iron you continue to line the bias tape up with the edge of the fabric. I find it helpful to press from the wrong side, then the right side. – Blank Slate Sewing Team ». Bias is used in many quilting techniques and sewing projects. Mar 13, 2019 - Finishing a curved hem with bias tape // Kalle Shirtdress pattern Sewalong via @closetcasepatt Heather Handmade shows how you can lengthen pants using a bias tape hem. See it now? A straight-grain strip will not curve without kinks and warping. Stephanie star-spangledheart.blogspot.com June 13, 2013 For this 1/2″ finished bias we need to cut strips 1″ wide. Bring the bias tape tails together and pin them where they should meet, flush with the fabric. Change ). That was just for my own pure satisfaction. For both methods: If it is and inside curve (like on the side of a shirt with a shirttail hem), when you fold the fabric up there isn’t enough to cover the curve, and for an outside curve (like a circle skirt) you end up with more fabric than the hemline when you fold up the raw edge. Jun 25, 2020 - In our post on sewing a proper muslin, I mentioned underlining a few times and want to revisit the subject today. This technique works best on dress pants and on fabrics that don’t have a crease worn in at the hem. One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. Bias tape usually comes with two folds, as pictured above. If an invisible hem would be more appropriate to your garment, slip stitch this upper edge in place. But for all of them you have to make sure that the part of the bias tape that stays underneath is caught in the stitching. Because bias tape is cut on the bias, it can stretch around curves to lie flat. Follow the instructions included with your sewing pattern for the construction of the shirt … To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. So here’s how you do it. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You may gently grade the seams if your fabric is very thick. Bias tape on the other hand is a thin band of material which is cut “on the bias.” A bias simply means an angle of 45 degrees across the fabric. Using the sewing machine, top stitch around the top edge of the bias tape to finish the hem. Trim tails, press open and attach loose section of bias tape to hem between backstitches. Single Fold Bias Tape. Adjust the bias tape on the wrong side so that it covers the stitching from step 4 and pin in place. Now if you haven’t already done so, hop over to the Monthly Stitch and check out the rest of this linen shirt and take a gander at all the lovely indie sewing that’s been going on. Give up? Now you have miles of raw fabric strips to feed through your bias tape maker. There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) Halve the tape so that it edges the hem and is a visible feature. For the second of the Indie Pattern Month challenges on The Monthly Stitch, I’ve made two Sewaholic Granville button down shirts. In this case, the bias tape fabric is seen. Using a long strong pin can make pulling the starting end through the maker a little easier. If your project has top stitching and a top stitched hem will look appropriate, as is the case with this shirt, you can machine stitch close to  the upper edge of the bias. Leave about 1/2″ of tape sticking off the each end of your seam if you have a flat hem to finish like this shirt. Use double bias tape to enclose the hem edge to remain as a visible feature. (Where did you get this fabric – your usual local Joann’s?!). Discover (and save!) If you get neurotic like me, you can even pattern match when joining your strips. So here’s how you do it. However, my old tutorial showing you about bias tape and cutting on the bias, is well, really old. So what should you do? You can read all about my two Granvilles over on The Monthly Stitch blog but here I’d like to share with you how I finished that curved hem of my linen striped version. I was taught this by my mother years ago… I guess I thought everyone knew how to do this. Overlap this folded edge with the end of the tape. To finish up, I’ll show you some of the other things you can do with bias tape. Now press the entire bias tape and seam allowance to the inside of the garment so that it cannot be seen from the right side. It’s in the center of the second wide blue strip to the left of the right hand seam. And it lacked some pictures. Align the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of your hem with right sides together. Stitch the bias tape to the hem along the crease of the fold. Required fields are marked *. 3. Make sure to cut the tape about 1″ longer than the hem you’re going to make. May 18, 2019 - This Pin was discovered by Jennie Petty. In the case of stripes or plaids, a bias binding is particularly attractive since the design when cut on the bias … the Monthly Stitch and check out the rest of this linen shirt. In fact, it's something that I have used from the very beginning of my sewing adventure...and is not something to be feared. If you have a complete circle to hem, you’ll have to join the beginning to the end (that will have to wait for a different tutorial though). Follow the directions on the package for cutting your fabric at a 45 degree angle in long strips. Bias binding is when bias tape is used to enclose the raw edge of a neckline, armhole, or hem. « Batman and Robin Costume DIY – with free pants pattern! Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. There are many ways to apply bias tape to finish a hem. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Bias tapes are cut on the bias so they are a little stretchy which is good for sewing curved hems. The same method used for adding a bias tape facing can pretty much be used for any type of curved hem as well. Melissa Mora is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Quilting For Beginners Quilting Tips Quilting Tutorials Quilting Projects Quilting Designs Sewing Tutorials Beginner Quilting Sewing Projects Quilt Binding Tutorial * Binding 1-2-3. And not just because I’m about to undertake circle skirt #3 in the pursuit of Halloween costumes for the short people. ( Log Out /  Check the hem allowance on your pattern, and trim it down to equal half the width of your bias tape if needed. Press bias tape down. This one just folds up the 1/4″ on each raw edge, leaving a 1/2″ wide strip  down the center. Bias tape is perfect for a decorative finish on a curved edge because the bias will bend and ease around the curve. Once you have the whole length pressed into neat little bias tape it’s time to apply it. LOL! There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) - using single fold bias tape. your own Pins on Pinterest Quilt Binding. The Granville puts a feminine spin on the tailoring of a traditional male shirt including details like curved shirt tails. The adhesive on the hem tape, which is has two sides, gives a strong bond that lasts even through repeated laundering. By using bias tape to sew the hem, you can use that fabric that is typically turned to the back for the hem to get a little extra length in the legs. Fold hem allowance up and stitch around free edge of bias tape … In this post I’ll walk you through three ways. Fold the bias tape over, which will hide the seam created in Step 2. We also carry a wide range of these types of products by the yard or the roll from other suppliers. This is great if you want a really narrow hem, alternatively, you could use hem facing which is basically the same thing, but typically the size of a hem fold. Tutorial: Finishing a curved hem with bias binding. It does give the hem a nice drape, and if it’s done in a contrasting color or print you can fold it over only once and have a pretty accent piece. Excess fabric is trimmed out. Bias tape is commonly used in armholes, necklines, straps, or ties in both clothing and bags. This video shows you how to work with single fold bias tape and sew it evenly and professionally around curved edges. Hem stitch along the folded edge of the bias tape. The secret to getting a clean finish on a curved hemline is bias tape! One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. Shop for Bias Tape in Notions & Sewing Accessories. Underlining fabric is often Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the fabric. I also use bias tape on curved hems. USING BIAS TAPE. Press this seam allowance away from the hem edge. For this method of hemming you’ll need some single fold bias tape, either store bought or custom made. at Walmart and save. If you’re having a hard time sewing bias tape on a curve, you can mark a … Bias tape can be used directly on raw edges of fabric, or can be used to make other types of edging, including piping and binding seams. Buy products such as Wrights 1/2" Double Fold White Bias Tape, 3 Yd. Your email address will not be published. This is best for sheer fabrics like chiffon, organza or silk; Using tape to cover the hem on the wrong side of the fabric; Covering both sides along a raw edge with a bias strip; Since it is cut on the bias it can curve around edges extremely well. Due to its flexibility and finished look, bias tape is often used in place of a hem at the edge of a piece of fabric. Vogue Fabrics stocks most Wrights packaged bias tapes, rick rack, piping, hem facing. How to sew a curved hem - hem a curve with bias tape. If necessary, stitch your strips together at the ends to create longer lengths. The first one is the fastest. Unfold one edge of the bias tape. October 16, 2014 by Melissa Mora 6 Comments. Because bias tape is cut on the bias, it can stretch around curves to lie flat. Bias Tape is a wonderful thing. First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. Press. This is very useful when sewing the tape in a basic curve. To hem, unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. There are also a few methods to sew bias strips. USING BIAS TAPE. Use matching thread if you do not wish for the stitches to be noticeable. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. If you’re sewing the regular shirt, you’ll still have a little bit extra hanging off the placket after you’ve understitched. ( Log Out /  To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. As you may know, hemming a curved edge, especially one that undulates up and down and up and down again without undue puckering can be a tedious task if you try to simply press up twice and stitch. SEWING BIAS TAPE HEM. Be careful around the curves – ensure you press smoothly here, and try to keep the … I will be making the Granville shirt sometime in the near future, so great tip! To do this, first go find yourself one of these handy dandy tools: Mine is a Dritz Quilting brand 1/2″ (12 mm) bias tape maker. This will make sure raw edges of the bias tape are covered when you’re done. ( Log Out /  I tried a few different finishing methods when this pattern was in development, and ultimately bias tape gave the neatest finish. It’s not strictly necessary to do this, as bias tape won’t unravel much even on a raw edge, but I like to do it anyway. It can be made of contrasting or matching fabric. Now press the bias tape up. Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. About 1″ longer than the hem discovered by Jennie Petty – your usual Joann. Gave the neatest finish stitch around the curve a 1/2″ wide or less starting..., leaving a 1/2″ wide or less a curved hem - hem a curve with tape. Both ends already folded under so that it is cut on the bias!. 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